My Projects

Screen Door12V DC Power SourceShorter WheelsInterior Shelving (front & rear)12V Water Pump for Fawcet12V Water Pump for FawcetCustom Rear Platform / Bike RackMy Scissor JacksAdd-A-Room Factory OptionMore StorageEmily Provincial Park 2002 Reunion

Screen Door

Make sure the Trailer is Level before you start. There are four crossbars in the door, counter-sunk 1 inch into the side frames. This gives the door stability. Measurements are unique to trailers. No nails are used. Everything is glued. Bottom panel adds to structure integrity. This is why there is no screen on the bottom. Three hinges were used to hold the door. I used a small latch with two rollers to keep the door closed. Use 4 coats of Varathane Clear Waterborne Outdoor, for protection. Once you get the two side pieces secured in place, then you can take the final measurements for your door size.

Measure twice, glue once.

Start by tracing out your right and left side edges.

Four screws were used to hold the latch-edge to the cupboard.

You can use any handle you like. I have this lined up with the door below the screen. The handle is screwed in from the opposite side.

Also, see here how the screens fit. They are also countersunk and have to be carefully built to fit the door properly. A router was used create the countersink.

These are all the final components in relation with the trailer, just before Varathane and assembly. Notice the curved side pieces. They are curved and shaped to fit their respective sides.

Here's a finished view.

Notice the top anchor point secured against the Top Shelf. Here I used two 4" screws with nuts and washers. Use any method to secure the hinge-side of the door.

Here's a view on the finished door from the inside. A wooden knob was used so that screw heads would not show from the outside.

The screw on the right here is counter sunk, and the narrow door stopper is later placed on top to hide this screw.

This shows the top of the two screws holding the frame on the left-hand side. Also, when the edge-piece is installed, those screws are then hidden.

12V DC Power Source

WARNING. You should check with a qualified automotive technician if you have questions about connecting live wires. You can now setup your trailer 25 feet away from your car, and still have power! I use the power for lighting, or for my Water Pump. Keep in mind, that you should not let your car battery discharge. I've used my power source for 2 days before recharging my car battery. If you have any questions or would like to know more, you can find me back at the Boler website, and contact me, "Gord100".

This picture shows how I taped off 12V DC from the car battery source. To find the right source of power, you need an volt meter. Use the volt meter to find a constant 12V DC source. Make sure the car is off so that your 12V source won't require your car keys! Notice the 15Amp fuse (check Canadian Tire) that I installed to protect against short circuits.

From the power source I created, I ran a wire under the car to inside the trunk somewhere. Notice the long brown wire coiled on the ground. This is 25' standard lamp wire (~14 gauge.) You will need to attach this long wire to a 2-prong automotive connector (check Canadian Tire). You can disconnect this wire during transportation.

Shorter Wheels

These are short plywood wheels I made to allow me to put our 1975 Trillium Trailer into the garage for winter storage, because our trailer roof is slightly higher than our garage door will allow. Obviously I use these wheels for storage, not for towing! The picture below shows a 12" diameter plywood wheel made of 3 X 5/8" plywood. The wheel is fortified by using carpenter's glue & screws to hold together three pieces of plywood. If you want to make your own shorter wheels, follow these instructions:

How to make wheels:
  • Jack up your trailer and remove the wheel bolts. There are 5 bolts.
  • Remove the wheels (tires).
  • Take a piece of paper and trace where the bolt holes are on the flange. Also trace the center hub.
  • Make a circle on the plywood using a protractor. My wheels are 12" diameter.
  • Trace your template onto the plywood, make sure you've centered it.
  • The five holes should be about 11/16" each.
  • The center hub should be about 2 & 3/4".
  • Drill out the holes & cut out the center hub.
  • Now you want to glue on two more pieces of plywood for support. But you MUST have a 6" center hole for these, because the bolts should only go through the first plywood. Also, we want to attach all pieces of plywood before cutting the outer circle in order to make all three pieces the same.
  • Gluing: After gluing, use clamps and let the glue set for a good day. You can reinforce the 3 pieces of plywood, use wood screws. This will prevent the plywood from separating if you store your trailer in a damp location.
  • After gluing is complete, cut the 12" diameter using a band saw or jig saw.
  • Once the wheel is made, bolt it onto the trailer hub.
  • Do the same for the other shorter wheel and you are done!

  • This shows the plywood wheel with the normal trailer wheel behind, to show the size comparison.

    This shows the front and back of the plywood wheel and a height to the top of the wheel well.

    This shows a drop of 6 inches in trailer height with the plywood wheel installed.

    This shows the 1/2" space between the top of the trailer to the top of the garage door.

    This shows the trailer inside the garage with the plywood wheels installed. Make note that this is for our trailer only and anyone doing this should take their own measurements.

    Interior Shelving (front & rear)

    Shelving is useful to hold towels, books & magazines, or whatever you fancy. They're made of 1/4" plywood with a 2" border trim around the edge. Its tricky to fit the shelf into the rounded conture of the trailer. I made a cardboard template before I began to cut any wood. The shelf is screwed in place by 90° brackets. If you have any questions or would like to know more, you can find me back at the Boler website, and contact me, "Gord100".

    This is the front left-hand side Shelf. Note the shower type bar installed used for hanging clothes or drying towels.

    This is the rear left-hand side Shelf. Note the 120V fluorescent light fixture mounted under the shelf. Behind this light, is a small 12V incandescent light. This is very handy if you want to read in bed at night.

    12V Water Pump for Fawcet

    Here we have a 12 volt electric pump for the trailer sink! The water comes from our water tank which is stored under the rear seat (bed). You can buy a kit and get the pump, fawcet and switch from your local trailer accessories stores. If you have any questions or would like to know more, you can find me back at the Boler website, and contact me, "Gord100".

    Notice the red switch. Its called a 'maintain switch' that comes with the pump. Its behaviour acts like this: Push once, pump comes on. Push again, pump goes off.

    Notice the two white water hoses. The bottom is the water intank (from the tank) and the other goes up to the sink's fawcet. Also notice the white and red wires. The red that comes from the pump is connected white wire from the 12V DC Power Source. The black wire from the pump is connected to the switch. The remaining black wire from the switch is connected the black wire from my 12V DC Power Source (notice power source has black and white wires.) You need to secure the pump to something. In my trailer, theres a piece of wood that makes a good brace.

    This is a rough schematic, but all hookup instructions comes with the pump kit

    Custom Rear Platform / Bike Rack

    If your pulling a Trillium Trailer and you want to bring your bicycles with you, there's no convenient way unless you have some way to carry them. I made this simple wooden platform, that attaches to the back bumper of the trailer. I also use it to keep some camping equipment off the damp/wet ground. For example; wood, boxes, chairs, etc... Here's 8 pictures I took the summer of 2001. I've provided a small description for each picture. If you have any questions or would like to know more, you can find me back at the Boler website, and contact me, "Gord100".

    I'm going to try to explain how this platform is attached. The diagram on the right represents the picture directly below. If you look at the diagram, you'll notice the 3" x 3" x 1/4" plate (BLUE) that I welded on myself. The hole is big enough to handle a 5/8" bolt. In my case, the bolt is ~3" long. Of course you need two brackets (one for each side.) Don't forget to use a large washer on the top, and two secure nuts on the bottom (so they don't loosen off.)

    Here you can see the platform bolted to the bracket on the trailer frame. Notice the eye bolt, used for hooking bungee cords.

    The two wooden platform boards extending from the trailer are about 5 feet long (extending from the trailer bumper is about 20".) It's really up to you to decide how long your platform will extend from the trailer.

    Here's a good shot of the platform.

    You can fasten eye bolts around the platform to help hold your bungee cords.

    Here's a picture after arriving at the camp site. The bikes are attached to the platform using bungee cords.

    The bungee cord I am holding here, attaches from the bottom of the platform, over the bikes, and to the back of the spare wheel support where I have also mounted more eye bolts.

    I used about four bungee cords. Two short ones are used to keep the wheels in place at the bottom, and two longer ones extending over the bikes.

    I also use the platform to keep some camping equipment off the damp/wet ground. For example; wood, boxes, chairs, etc... You can put a plastic cover over the platform to protect things underneath.

    My Scissor Jacks

    I've made some updates to my rear scissor jacks and finally am able to post them on this website for you. This is very handy when travelling because you don't have to store the jacks in the trailer because the jack is closed when driving. It's very easy to setup and level the trailer when camping. I found that using Scissor Jacks is an easy way to keep your trailer level, and support all four corners no matter what terrain your camping on. I found my four Scissor Jacks at flea markets for a couple of dollars each. They were originally used for the Chrysler K car. Here's 3 pictures I took the summer of 2001. I've provided a small description for each picture. If you have any questions or would like to know more, you can find me back at the Boler website, and contact me, "Gord100".

    This shows a piece of angle iron (3" width across the top by 2" deep by 9" long) welded to the frame of the trailer with a scissor jack bolted upside-down.

    This show the crank with the scissor jack extended.

    Close up showing the jack bolted to the angle iron.

    I started by welding a 1' long 1.25" x 1.25" square tube (made from steel) to the frame of the trailer. A 5/8" nut is welded at the bottom of this tube,while the top is welded shut with a small piece of steel.

    When I'm ready to install the jacks, I thread a two inch piece threaded rod into the nut. The jack is fitted below the rod, which easy slips into place. The threaded rod keeps the jack from slipping off.

    Here's a back bumper view of the square tubes. Notice the back platform attached to the trailer

    The reason why the square tubes are so long, is because they help protect the trailer shell. They don't need to be this long, in fact you can even weld the 5/8" nut right onto the frame.

    Add-A-Room Factory Option

    People have asked to see an original Trillium Trailer Add-A-Room and the Canopy that comes with it. The canopy has three spring-loaded bars across the top, and three poles which support it. Therefore, no support cables are required keeping you from tripping over cables. It's very easy to put up. The Add-A-Room walls are zippered along the top, attaching it to the canopy. You'll notice that there are snaps along the side of the trailer, which fastens the canopy walls securely to the trailer. The walls of the Add-A-Room have screen windows with outer roll-up curtains made of canvas material. We find this particular canopy handy when we go camping for any extended length of time. We can put the picnic table and lawn chairs in there, it also reduces the wind and also keeps out flies and rain. Here's 12 pictures I took the summer of 2001. I've provided a small description for each picture. If you have any questions or would like to know more, you can find me back at the Boler website, and contact me, "Gord100".

    You can see me pointing to the snaps on the side of the trailer (notice the far end too.) The side walls of the Add-A-Room attach here.

    Here you can see how the canopy is supported. You can't see it very well, but there is a top/front horizontal bar that secures the three front vertical supports.

    The canopy is attached to the trailer by sliding the canopy through a grove mounted to the trailer.

    Notice the poles under the canopy. There are three of them. They're spring loaded (like shower curtain bar), so they do a great job keeping the tarp on top stretched.

    The poles are adjustable for height. They also have a metal loop at the bottom to hold them in place with tent poles.

    If it rains very heavy, you'll need to push up from under the canopy to drain the water. Other than that, it's very secure and stable in all kinds of weather.

    Here's a view from far.

    Here's a look at the Add-A-Room securely attached to the trailer, with the side canvas curtains down.

    The red arrow indicates the vertical zipper used to "get in" to the Add-A-Room. You can also see the strings above used to tie the rolled up curtains.

    Here's a look with the curtains tied up.

    Front View

    Rear view.

    More Storage

    This allows you access the storage area that is under the back seat in the trailer. I still have my water tank installed on the other side of the trailer so I only put a door on the one side. This is very useful, because you do not have to remove the back seat or bed if you want to quickly utilize this storage area. Outside dimensions: 17.5" X 11.5" Inside dimensions: 14.5" X 8.5" You can buy these at trailer retail outlets. I bought this from someone who renovates trailers. I recommend the hinge be at the bottom. Try to install the door on a relatively flat area. To attach the door, pre-drill the holes and use self-tapping stainless steel screws. Use a sealant to keep the rain out.

    Door is locked closed.

    Open showing easy access to storage area.

    Very roomy and easy to access!

    Emily Provincial Park 2002 Reunion

    Cheers!! Rick Myers and Fred Taylor organized this event. I took video footage of our time there. Here is the link to Emily's website:

    Here's me, Gord100.

    Here's a map detailing how to get there

    Here's a map of the campground itself.

    Doug from Miami cooked the turkey for the pot-luck. His style is to deep fry the bird

    Bob showing off his melons on the way to the pot-luck.

    Here's a shot of the large camp-fire. Everyone always got together to exchange a few ideas.